I would say the easiest clay to find (should be in any craft store) is FIMO polymer clay. You can try color Flesh Pink #43. You can create a complete figure out of this clay without mixing it with anything else. I myself use it quite often. I like mixing my clays with each other for different color or effect (translucent or opaque). Be careful using a lot of translucent clay, because it creates moonies (tiny white patches of trapped air), they are difficult to fix. But if you try FIMO just as it is, you should not have any problems, especially if you follow the instructions on the back of the packaging for baking. I also like adding Cernit clay to it, but it’s not necessary.
Polymer clay is a wonderful medium, and I got hooked on it as soon as I tried to make one face. Although it was horrible, lol, I didn’t give up. It’s a lot of hard work but lots of fun as well! Since then I have been experimenting a lot and creating quite a variety of different characters. (Please visit my Galleries to view samples of my work.)
If you are interested in making a one of a kind figure, I recommend starting with a mermaid, because you don’t need to worry about making feet and legs. Besides, it’s fun painting the tail and adding lots of sparkles and glitter.
Inside of each doll there should be a wire armature, which is pretty easy to make. I use mostly 18-16 gauge aluminum wire for my dolls from 5 to 7 inches. If the doll gets bigger, I get thicker and more sturdy wire, say for 8-9 inch figure, I use 16 gauge wire, for 10-12 inch I use 14 gauge. For smaller dolls like 5-11 inches you don’t need to put wire in the fingers, just need to be careful when shipping the doll. It’s a whole separate topic on shipping.
If you do not want to buy FIMO, there’s another clay you can try, it’s Super Sculpey or Living Doll by Sculpey. Another popular clay is Premo by Sculpey. It has beautiful Soft beige colour and Transluscent Frost. Make sure you condition the clay for a few good minutes. It means squash it in your hand for 5-7 minutes, until it becomes pliable.
Conditioning is the process that makes polymer clay ready to work with. Most conditioning is done simply by working the clay with your hands until it reaches a good working consistency. The warmth of your hands combined with the physical process of stretching and compressing the clay changes its texture, making it softer and more pliable.
Conditioning clay softens it, making it easy to work with and mold. It also makes the clay stickier and less brittle, letting you roll thin sheets without causing the clay to crack and break.
Some clay brands so soft out of the package that you’ll be tempted not to bother with conditioning, but you will find that taking the time will improve both the workability of the clay and the strength of your fired pieces.
The simplest way to condition polymer clay is to work it with your hands for several minutes. Take a chunk of clay of a size you feel comfortable working with, half an ounce to an ounce or so, and begin squishing it between your fingers. As the clay warms and softens, start rolling it between your palms info a snake shape. Then move your hands against each other in a circular motion to compress the snake back to a ball. Repeat this process several times. How Long?
The time can vary depending on the type of clay you are using, your style of conditioning, the amount of clay, and the temperature, but usually it takes something between three and ten minutes.
This answer will depend on the type of doll you would like to create.